Edwardian Era 1901-1919

Edwardian Era 1901-1919
During this era King Edward VII ruled the United Kingdom, British domains and Emperor of India from the 22nd of January until his death at the age of 69 on the 6th of May 1910 in the Buckingham Palace.
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=what+age+did+king+edward+VIII+die&biw=1920&bih=985&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=Y91RVKaNFYia8QWa3oDQBw&ved=0CAUQ_AUoAA&dpr=1#q=what+age+did+king+edward+VII+die

During this time Theodore Roosevelt was President and World War 1 was in action. The Edwardian era was a total refurnish after all the industrial revolution was a major out come towards the rethink of our future towards our civilization.

Clothing became less extravagant and more modernised especially when King Edward per posed a new and mature idea against woman's clothing, He invented the 'S bend. The 'S' bend was a rather different style with the bust flat and perky with the bottom pocking out creating the 'S' and the Health corset was developed a healthier corset which was much more suitable for woman, it flattened the chest and threw the bust forward and the hips back.

Woman's were was more and more elaborate with more detailed trims on blouses and jacket became popular with The Balero a short cut jacket and The 'Eton bodice' a inspired men's jacket. also a lot of lace was worn along the bodice and neck where they used boning to achieve a high neckline and worn low neck lines during the evening.

Also another popularity was wearing flat hats that were worn falling forward and mostly worn with a feather across the top. Woman started working and needed functional clothing so the invented away around that rather then elaborating the clothing they simplified it by making it more simpler with less form and more function.

the empire line became fashionaand the 'S' bend lost its way and the dress sense became a lot less pretentious and more straighter with the hips sinking in and corsets became more formed around the bodice to contour woman's shape.

By now woman's hats became more wider with more decoratively like adding bunches of flowers and strands of leafing and flower pods around the brim of the hats. A new continuous fashionable trend that lasted a while was the not so genius structured skirt became available. The Hobble skirt a straight skirt narrow at the hem and woman wore a garter between their legs to prevent a tear in their slace became unfashionable and the new idea of button as an embellishment was increasingly popular through there whole garments.

In 1913 the 'V Neck was invented wasn't popular towards other woman who preferred less visible clothing and was mostly worn in a garment such as a nightdress. woman developed a new trend such as the tunic worn over the hobble skirt but even that was to restricting and new alternative to clothing was a much less tighter skirt and they just went along with the tunic idea and adding the to the top half making the tunic half overlapping down from the waist.

after the war fashion became more thoughtful and woman began to wear tunnel dresses straight and tucked into the waist later forming the flapper dress. also hats became less extreme and was shorten over time.

Men's wear was not so much explored with and was much more similar then woman clothing. Men commonly wore the "Lounge Suit a normal more relaxed suit with less detail and more unthoughtful only in terms of patterned fabric such as strips. Men's formal wear consisted of a tuxedo type look with a frock coat and a vest. Men's trousers were quite formal with a folded hem and a very straight slim look with a crease at the front. Men's hats were very plain with the Homburg and straw hats been invented first then followed the top hat for more formality. Also men's work wear was more though over like the use of leather.

https://learning.wintec.ac.nz/pluginfile.php/215632/mod_resource/content/1/Edwardian.pdf


Men's Edwardian Fashion
http://www.fashion-era.com/images/1800_1900_laver/1840_laver_men.jpg

The 'S' Bend Corset

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Edwardian.jpg/376px-Edwardian.jpg

The Hobble Skirt Invented by Mrs Hart Bret
http://image.glamourdaze.com/2013/09/hobble-skirt-1910.jpg
 

Met Gala Red Carpet 2014
http://media1.onsugar.com/files/2014/05/06/705/n/1922564/c1437b975f7d97d3_488359733_10.xxxlarge_2x/i/Met-Gala-Red-Carpet-Details-2014.jpg

I have selected this modern outfit straight from the red carpet 2014. it is inspired by the Edwardian era because of the elements that have been constructed into this garment, such as the 'S' bend shape look quite similar and even through the chest isn't flattened the body the shape of the dress give it the 'S' effect pocking the bust out and back out as well. another great element is the bodice it has the look of the corset used in the invention of the hobble skirt such as the was it forms the body around the hip area wear they would show the hipline. another big inspiration towards the Edwardian era is the 'v' neck clearly shown. inspired tunic look at the hem of dress is a big inspiration of the tunic layering the hobble skirt in the middle of the Edwardian era. this dress is a full inspiration of the Edwardian era and consists of elements from this era mostly because of the form but their is also a lot of small elements like the was the tunic shape is form in circular shapes leading out into full forms creating an explosion such as the design element full puffy sleeves during the 'S' bend trend were woman would were full formed sleeves to show more elegance.

Basque Era 16th Century

Main events that impacted the fashion in the Basque Era:

• King Charles the second (of England)
• King Louis XIV
• The european Colonision of america
• "The Science Revolution" was beginning with scientists such as Issac Newton and Galieo
• Taj Mahal was built 
• harved universerty founded
• First European sighting of New Zealand

The Clothes (1500s)

Spanish influence 
Pirates of the carribean

Ruffs:

• White - yellow
• They used starch to make clothing stiff
• Started not using startch and left the collared ruffs to fall

Doublet:

• Stopped being stuffed
• High buttoned
• point at front became lower and cuffs

Sleeves:

• became wider and would be slashed and also panning

Breeches:

• petticoat, very wide and highly decorated with bunches of ribbon
•  no less than 250 yards of ribbion been used on one pair (laver)
• also worn on other garments

Vest:

• Perisan influences
• long, covering the breeches
• got shorter
• 1670 universal
• worn under coat
• crovate

Mens Neck Wear:

• The wearing of the vest made the scarf around the neck be able to be tucked in 

Steinkirk cravat:

• invented when their was a rush to war
• rushing to wear they pulled the scarf through the button hole 
• was popular for 12 years

Wigs:

• heavy bottom hair/curly
• lawyers court
• powder was worn through the wigs/face
• they didn't wash them self and instead used powder (filthy rich)

Wide Brim Hats:

• the "tricon hat" - three parts of brim turned up
• "cocked hat" was a mark of gentility 

Puritans

• Dutch influences
• parliament vs crown
• Amish = no decorations/plain

 Cavaliers:

• "englishmen with an element of material swagger"
• laven, breeches and doublet
• with one shoulder cloak
• wide brim hat with a plume
• funnel boots
• Three muskaters

Woman's clothing:

• farthingales dissapered
• woamn figures became more natural 
• bodice
• petticoat
• 2 different skirts
• gown
• wide sleeves
• low cut bodice
• modestery peice to hide chest
• deep v laced up front
•  skirts will fall in folds to the ground

Hair:

• Flat on top - curly fluffy on side
• black hood on the worn outside
• 1690s french fashion adopted by english - camod to add heigh
• lasting untill 1700s

Make up:

• Patches - fake moles or shaped star cut out of fabric and stuck to the face
• also they used powder as well

http://www.teara.govt.nz/files/29866-atl.jpg

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Louis_XIV_of_France.jpg

 

 

http://38.media.tumblr.com/9e5e59ffec1565dc6d4a19a753d4ecde/tumblr_mxg56il03k1qbohcko1_1280.jpg

 

 

 

http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/maticevski/collection/1

 

how this outfit inspired by the basque era:
this outfit really stuck out to me because of the many elements that relate to this peryicular era.
for example, the wide sleeves, just like the woman wore also the the fitting of the body and also the v upside down reminds me of their v waist line. another element is that the hair is flat at top and ruff on the outside, nearly like the womans hair.  anothere element is the layer look, it looks like shes wear a three peice outfit, just like the womans wear when you can tell how much their really wearing, like a petticoat almost. also the colour yellow stuck out to me because it was a very common color for collars also one more element is the gather at waist.

Renaissance 1450 - 1600

Renaissance 1450 - 1600

Key Features:

Unisex:

Slashing

Ruffs

Lace

Men's wear:

Camica = against skin, underneath garment, black embroidery.0

Doublet = jacket worn over close fitting- with or with out sleeves. longer = fitted to skirt.

Jacket = outer use for most garments, use over top of camica.

Jerkin = is like a jacket but made out of leather or velvet and sleeveless.

Cod Piece = a pouch like appendage made from the jerkin materials and fastened by decorative ties, opening for briefs.

Head wear =  Flap cap, soft crowned hat with a broad brim.

Foot Wear = duckbilled, boots, Natural materials, slashing for comfort and decoration.

Woman's Wear:

Chemise = seen underneath and slashed through

Bodice = V waist line or straight waist

Funnel Sleeves

Skirt = attach to bodice or separate from dress, high waist, spanish or french farthingale

Outer dress = worn over all layers, open at front, slashed/ability to see under layers

head wear = plucked hair line back, large foreheads were in and twin buns to represent horns also coronet or a coif

Foot wear = Chopines - could get up to 13 inches in height originally to keep feet from mud and made out of wood and leather and with beading or a lot of embroidery.

http://michelangelo.pixel-online.org/artist_scheda.php?art_id=27

http://hubpages.com/hub/Renaissance-Fashion-Womens-Clothing-in-Elizabethan-England

http://www.ducksters.com/history/renaissance/elizabethan_era.php

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/renaissance.htm

http://www.renaissance-spell.com/Renaissance-Clothing/Women-Costumes-Henry.html

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2015RTW-TOMASMAIER/

 

This design is by Tomas Maier  from his 2015 RTW collection on www.style.com

i feel this doesn't bring out most elements to the era Renaissance nut i believe a few element in this picture relates to some key features such as the woman foot wear the Chopines because of the unique shape. The point of the toes and the fit looks similar plus embroidery mostly over the front of the shoes, also the rich colour blue = a rich look.

The second element i would like to point out id the skirt, it has the same high waist element to the early renaissance period where they would wear there skirts high waisted. also the long length is also another key feature that relates to the full length clothing and coverage back then. also another key feature for th e skirt is the square waist line is signified by the belt and looks the the square waistline in renaissance period. 

The colours also relate back to the renaissance period is the amount of colours. many rich people wore many different colour a once and poor people were only aloud to wear one colour at a time ( thats where slashing come into) to signify the different between poor and rich. this image reminds me of that because all the different colour palettes she is wearing and it signify a rich person.

Era: Greek Dates: 800BC-600AD

Era: Greek     Dates: 800BC-600AD
Key Features:

• rectangle cloth clothing
• chiffon
• knee length (men)
• full length (woman)
• belt at waists (woman)
• fastened at shoulders
• wool or linen
• gathers, drapes 
• younger men no katon
• (Himaton) warmth, wool, wrapped around body, unisex, used over the katon
• woman hide them selfs fully clothed
• purple = royalty 
• low class wore redish brown clothing
• high class + sandels
• tunics made of leather reinforced with metal
  
  http://613482920640624315.weebly.com/ 
  
  http://diiomnymi.blogspot.co.nz/2014/01/ancient-greek-clothes_7.html
  
   http://www.richeast.org/htwm/greeks/costume/costume.html 

 

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-DGABBANA 

I have selected look number 33 from the Dolce & Gabbana spring 2014 ready to wear collection.
I have chosen this image because it reminds me of the Greek era. This image shows the era quite clearly because of the coins of Greek goddesses and the colours seem neutral because there weren't many colours they could die their clothing with. Also gold is inspired by the Greek era, gold is used a lot in here to boost the Greek theme. It has been cut on the abious to give that draping effect. the collar looks like some thing from the byzantine but the byzantine is after the Greek era so there quite similar  to the way they dress. she looks quite plain just like the clothing where in 800BC- 600 AD. Plain dull but draped all over and her sleeves are draped also the bottom half of her dress. The pattern on the dress is just like the embellished and patterned boarder on a royal Greek dress.